1100 Miles from Anywhere
Adam here. Tonight I’m on the midnight to three watch. It is a beautifully starry night with an almost full moon punctuated by scattered trade wind clouds. The wind is a bit shifty and gusty though, making for the occasional loud (and scary) “POP” from our huge, double-sided downwind sail. We are sailing at 7.5 - 8 knots in 15 -18 knots of wind 150 - 160 degrees off our starboard bow.
It has been a difficult past few months for us. Our time in Las Palmas was largely spent waiting for various vendors to complete repair work and systems installations. The repair list included our starboard rudder bearing, two sails and the genoa halyard swivel. We also took the opportunity to add 810 watts of solar panels to Saltair, which required stainless and electrical work as well as some thoughtful redesign of our passaralle (the boarding plank that we use to get on and off the boat when tied stern-to a dock). We had originally planned to add solar to our bimini as well but the canvas contractor didn’t have the time to do the work so we gave up on that project.
We’ve been underway now for the past ten days, having left Las Palmas on the 19th. The weather for the first week was suboptimal, with various weather systems in the North Atlantic limiting the formation of the typical trade winds and driving us further south to find them. We spent most of the first week heading south and west, adding extra distance on the typically 2700 mile route.
Our voyage has been complicated by what seem to be never-ending new boat issues with our rudder bearing seals and our large, downwind sail, those issues forcing us to take time off sailing to make repairs and adding stress, emotional anguish and uncertainty to our days. But we have been making the best of it and still consider ourselves lucky to be doing this.
For the moment, all is well and we are enjoying our beautiful evening sail. Looking at the chart, we are almost smack in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean. The closest points of land are Senegal, 1100 miles to the east, French Guiana, 1100 miles to the west-Southwest, and Brazil, 1100 miles to the south-southwest. Our destination, St. Lucia, is 1450 miles to the west. Our origin, Gran Canaria, is 1400 miles to the northeast. Interestingly, we are surrounded by other boats making the crossing. After not seeing another boat on radar or AIS for most of the past two days, earlier this evening we passed two boats within a mile of us, and a third boat just popped up on AIS thirteen miles ahead of us. There are 160 boats in the organized ARC rally but likely hundreds more making the crossing on their own. We are looking forward to tomorrow's "halfway celebration".
Here are some moments from the passage thus far.
The crew upon departure from Gran Canaria.
Seth's playroom, sleeping quarters, featuring a cool home-built mobile!
The crew taking pictures of the crew taking pictures.
One of many beautiful sunsets.
Guillemette and Seth working on our awesome Thanksgiving feast!
Et voila! Thanksgiving has arrived mid-Atlantic!
Ungle Matt standing watch.
Thanks for sharing! Love hearing the stories and seeing the photos! Safe sailing and fair winds!
Great pictures! Sorry about the ongoing boat problems!
The picture of the "Leaning Cooks of Saltair" has had me giggling non-stop. Thanks so much for sharing that!
Stay safe..
Sorry about all your technical problems on a brand new boat . Fortunately you are having good sailing conditions( no storms) a great crew and a fabulous cook. It is hard to imagine a turkey dinner In the middle of the Atlantic Bravo Guimette
Hang in there! You wouldn't be human if you didn't have doubts now & then. Sounds like you are all making the most of fixing things & that Seth is getting a lot of life lessons, including how to cook in tiny kitchens (on water!). Happy Belated Thanksgiving. Good luck - hope the fixes start to take up less time. XO, the Smiths
Your displayed chart looks like you're taking the same course I did 22 years ago in the Atlantic Rowing Race. Did you go through the horse latitudes? When we were about 28-29 days (half way across) we hit 8 or 9 days straight of calm water. I mean shiny smooth water with no wind, no waves and a slight counter current to our intended direction. 0600-0600 one 24hr span we only succeeded in rowing 17 miles. Your 10+ knot progress was quite different from ours and it must be exhilarating. Exhilarating for us was exceeding 2 knots ! And I have first hand experience with flying fish too. One very very dark and quiet night while I was alone at the oars, whack! Right in my chest a large flying fish hit me right where my heart is. Scared the heck out of me and started flopping around in my lap. Of course, by now I had a death grip on the oars while attempting to remove the fish flopping in my (naked) lap. It was all over in about 10 seconds but the experience will last a lifetime. Enjoy the journey. John Zeigler
Hello, glad you were able to manage your repair. I like the act that you were 1100 miles from coast on both sides.Waouh, it must be what a feeling. Indeed, I checked the map and you are already halfway. Impressed as you moved these 2 last days. Thanks for the great picture of the 5 of you 🙂 I like sunset, if you have one of the moon, I am interested too. Take care.
Hopefully the repairs are behind you. I am wondering if you had to do it again, would you get a used boat? RVers run into the same issues. 8knts of boat speed sounds awesome for a crusier!
We saw on predictwind you were moving along at 14 knots! Fun!
I so enjoy reading about your journey! Thanks for sharing.